History & Origins of Drip Irrigation

Drip Irrigation, also commonly referred to as micro-irrigation, trickle irrigation, low volume irrigation or xerigation. This is a method of irrigation which efficiently delivers water to the soil surface or the root zone; this is done by having water drip slowly from emission devices, most commonly called "drip emitters" or “drippers”.

Early forms of drip irrigation can be traced back to ancient times where clay pots were filled with water and then buried in the ground, this allowed the water to gradually leak out and into the root zone of nearby vegetation. The first formal development of drip irrigation supplies began around 1866 in Afghanistan, where they tested drip irrigation and drainage systems by using various types of clay pipe. A researcher at Colorado State University, Mr. E.B. House, began applying subsurface water directly to the root zone in 1913. Perforated Pipe was first used for irrigation in Germany around 1920.

After WWII, the ability to mold plastics became widespread and more cost effective. This helped pave the way for innovations in the manufacturing of drip irrigation system components. At this time, Polyethylene (PE) tubing, also referred to as "micro tubing" or"spaghetti tubing", and early versions of emitters (drippers), became more common and began to be installed throughout the US and Europe.

 

In Israel, Simcha Blass & Yeshayahu Blass were innovating in the area of emitter design. They created a method that allowed water to flow through longer and wider passageways inside of the emitter. These “labyrinths” as they were called, resulted in less clogging. The velocity of water moving through the labyrinth, and resulting turbulence, helps to slow it down, creating a "drip". In 1959 Kibbutz Harzerim partnered with Blass to form a company called Netafim, to further develop and test this concept. Netafim was then able to patent the first drip irrigation emitter. This development helped the technology of drip irrigation rapidly expand to Australia, North America, & South America in the late 60's.

 

Advantages & Benefits

In this time of water and resource conservation, drip irrigation makes sense. It is generally less expensive to install than conventional subsurface PVC systems and uses much less water.

Water Conservation - Drip irrigation allows you an efficient watering by supplying water where it is needed - at the very roots of the plants. As a result, water is not wasted on leaves or soil. This significantly reduces the chances for evaporation and run off. Both are common with traditional irrigation systems where the water is often supplied at a rate greater than the soil can absorb it.

Reduce Weed Growth - When water is applied using a conventional sprinkler, everything gets wet. Since drip irrigation applies water to the root zone of your plants, the spaces in between plants remain dry. This greatly inhibits weed seed germination. If the soil remains dry, most seeds will not germinate. Landscape maintenance takes less time with drip irrigation.

Reduce Plant Stress - When plants get deep, consistent watering, they thrive. Inefficient, shallow watering can contribute to plant stress. Promote healthy growth and disease resistance plants in your garden with drip.

Extremely Flexible Application - You have many options with drip irrigation tubing, fittings, and emitters. It is a versatile watering system which can easily be installed on hillsides or flat terrains. Drip is the perfect irrigation method for oddly shaped landscapes and windy areas. Existing sprinkler systems can be retrofit with drip irrigation with very little effort.

Save Money - Once a drip irrigation system is installed, you will use less water to irrigate. If you are on a well, you will notice a severe drop in your pumping costs. You will no longer need to hand watering your garden. Automate you system with an irrigation controller and eliminate the need to pay someone to while are on vacation. With the reduction of plant disease and unwanted weeds, your gardening labor and maintenance costs will also drop considerably.

 

Anatomy of a Drip System

Knowing all the parts and pieces that are needed to make up a drip irrigation system can seem a bit daunting. But if you look close enough, you will find that all drip irrigation systems break down into 3 main sections.

The first section is the Water Source Connection. This covers all the parts needed to attach your drip system to your water supply. The parts common to this section are the Hose Timer, Vacuum Breaker, Hose Filter, Pressure Regulator and Tubing Adapter.  The water supply can either be a hose bibb, spigot, faucet connection or irrigation valve. In general, most water supply connections will come with either ¾” male hose threads or pipe threads.

Next is Water Distribution. This covers all the parts needed to bring your water to the areas that require watering. The parts common to this section are Solid Poly tubing, Fittings and Stakes. 

Last is the Water Devices. This covers all the parts needed to deliver water directly to the plants. The parts common to this section are Drip Emitters, Micro Jets, Sprayers and Soaker Hose Dripline.

 

Soil Types

Not all soils are the same and each soil type will absorb water differently. Different soil types will also have an effect on which type of drip emitters will work best on your drip system. While all soils contain the same elements, different types of soils will contain different proportions of these given elements.  Although there many different types of soils, drip irrigation focuses on the following three soil types: Clay, Loam and Sand.

Clay soils have densely packed particles that have little space for water or air. Water is absorbed very slowly and run off can occur if water is applied to quickly. When wet, water tends to move outward, away from the drip emitter.  Clay soils will hold water very well and can stay wet for several days. Choose ½ & 1 GPH drip emitters when planting in clay soils. Drip emitter spacing tends to be further apart.

 
 

Sandy soils are very loose and have plenty of space for water or air. Water is absorbed very quickly and runoff usually doesn’t occur. When wet, water tends to move straight down through the soil. Sandy soils do not hold water very well and can dry out very quickly. Choose 2 & 4 GPH drip emitters when planting in sandy soils. Drip emitter spacing tends to be closer together.

 
 

Loam soils are an ideal in-between mix of clay and sandy soils. Its absorption rate is greater than that of clay soil but not as fast as sandy soil. When wet, water will move outward and down more evenly. Loam soils will hold water well and dry out at a medium rate. Choose 1 & 2 GPH drip emitters when planting in loamy soils.

 

 

 

 

 

Drip Terminology

Drip irrigation can seem like it comes with a language all its own.  Knowing the specific drip terminology is important before planning your drip irrigation system.

PSI – Pounds per Square Inch

GPM – Gallons per Minute

GPH – Gallons per Hour

GAL - Gallons 

FT - Foot

MHT – Male Hose Threads

FHT – Female Hose Threads

MPT – Male Pipe Threads

FPT – Female Pipe Threads

 

 

Water Source Connection Items, aka Head Assembly.

 

Timers: aka Hose Timer, Irrigation Timer, Water Timer, Controller & Clock. Timers are used to automate the watering of a drip irrigation system or sprinkler system.

Hose End Timer, Irrigation Controller

     

 

Valves: A manual or electric irrigation device used to control the flow of water. It is used in conjunction with a Irrigation Controller

 

 

Ball Valves: aka Shut off valves: Hose thread ball valves are used to shut off individual water lines or to split an existing water source to make two separate connections. Connect to 3/4" hose bibb, faucet, spigot, or garden hose end.

Inline Ball Valve, Y Ball Valve

           

 

 

Vacuum Breakers: aka Backflow Preventers: Prevents water from flowing back from your drip irrigation system into your household water. This prevents contamination of your water supply. Most municipalities require backflow prevention devices at the beginning of most irrigation systems.

 

Fertilizer Injector: aka Fert Injector: Fertilizer injectors are installed on the drip systems mainline to deliver liquid fertilizers and nutrients. Dilution rate is adjustable, so you can feed your drip system as needed.

 

 

Filters: aka Hose Filters & Drip Filters: Filters are installed between the hose vacuum breaker and the drip regulator and protects drip emitters, soaker hose dripline, sprayers and bubblers from rust, sand and other impurities that may clog them. Filters have removable screens for easy cleaning.

Inline Hose, Y Filter

    

 

Pressure Regulators: aka Pressure Reducers: A pressure regulator reduces household water pressure to a lower set pressure for use with a drip system. Always install a regulator after the filter.

 

Swivel Adapters: aka Tubing Adapters: Use to attach 1/2" or 1/4” mainline drip tubing to a water source connection assembly, hose bibb, spigot, faucet or the end of a garden hose. The swivel end screws onto male hose threads. Drip tubing inserts into the compression, direct-loc or barbed end.

            

 

 

Drip Zone Kit: Preassembled inline drip valve kit for drip irrigation systems. Includes valve, Y style filter and pressure regulator. It’s available in 3/4" or 1” pipe threads.

 

 

 

Water Distribution:

Drip Tubing: aka Poly Tubing, Poly Pipe, Supply Line, Trunk Line: Common term for Polyethylene pipe.  Flexible, black tubing used for both drip irrigation main and lateral lines. Emitters can be inserted into tubing or connected via micro tubing. Common sizes are 1/2" (aka 5/8”) or 3/4" tubing.

         

 

 

Micro Tubing: aka Spaghetti Tubing, Feeder Tubing: 1/4" micro tubing can be used as the main line for small deck/flower-pot installations, but is more often used as a lateral supply line off of 1/2" main line tubing. The micro tubing carries water to emitters (drippers), and micro sprays. Also referred to as "Distribution Tubing" it is available in Polyethylene (PE) or, the more flexible Poly Vinyl Chloride (PVC).

         

 

 

Compression Fittings: Fittings used to connect lengths of 1/2" and 3/4" solid drip tubing. The drip tubing is inserted into the compression fitting. The fittings internal compression ring squeezes the tubing slightly making a secure water tight seal. Compression fittings are more of a permanent connection and are not recommended for reuse. Glue or lubricants are not required.

              

 

 

Direct-Loc Fittings: aka Spin Loc, Perma Loc, Easy Loc or Power Loc: Twist barbed fittings onto 1/2" drip poly tubing, twist lock nut to lock tubing in place and make a water tight seal. Removable fittings make it easy to reconfigure your drip system if your needs or landscape designs change. Best fittings for winterizing your drip system – unscrew fittings, remove and store tubing away for winter. No glue or Teflon tape required.

             

 

 

¼” Barbed Connectors: aka Micro Connectors: Used to make connections between 1/4” micro tubing or to connect 1/4" micro tubing and 1/4" soaker hose dripline to 1/2" or 3/4" drip poly tubing. Use with a hole punch to attach to 1/2" or 3/4” solid tubing. No glue or lubricants are required.

               

 

 

Stakes: aka Clips & Hold Downs. Plastic or metal stakes used to hold drip tubing in place. Also available in 1/4” or 1/2” mounting clips to attach drip tubing to wood decks, eves, overhangs and fences.

 

                                     

 

Watering Devices:

Emitters: aka Drip Emitters, Drippers: Emitters distribute water droplets at a specified flow rate when used as part of a drip irrigation system. Emitters come in a variety sizes, styles, and flow rates. They have barbed or threaded bases. Barbed ends are either poked directly into 1/2" drip tubing or inserted into the end of 1/4" tubing. Threaded bases are screwed into micro tubing stakes and risers.

Pressure Compensating Emitter: Pressure compensating emitters deliver a consistent output of water, even with changes in pressure due to long drip runs or changes in pressure

Button Emitters, Turbo Style Emitters, Self Piercing Emitters with 1/4” barbed inlets

                           

 

Multi Outlet & Retro Fit Emitters with 1/2” FPT inlets

     

 

Non Pressure Compensating Emitters: Non pressure compensating emitters output will vary with changes in elevation and pressure. These emitters are best where the water zone is level.

Flag Emitters, Turbo Key Style Emitters, Inline Emitters with 1/4" barbed ends

             

 

 

Sprayers: aka Micro Sprays & Jets: Micro spray covers a category of spray caps, bases, one-piece, and adjustable sprayers and bubblers that are small and designed to operate with drip irrigation systems. They can be used for ground cover, flower beds, vegetable gardens and landscapes where you need to water a large area.

Adjustable Sprayers, Stream Bubblers, Micro Sprays, Foggers & Misters with barbed and threaded ends

 

                     

 

 

Tubing Stakes & Risers: Spray Stakes, Rigid Risers: Stakes and risers are use to create adjustable sprayer platforms to raise water above plants, shrubs or ground cover.

 

                  

 

Soaker Hose Dripline: aka Drip Emitter Tubing, Dripper Line & Drip-a-Long: Soaker Hose Dripline has drip emitters injected into the tubing as it is extruded. The tubing comes with emitters evenly spaced from 6 to 12 inches for 1/4” size tubing and 12” to 3 feet for 1/2” size tubing. It’s useful in row crops, vegetable gardens and evenly-spaced tree and shrub plantings. It is available in both 1/2" and 1/4" tubing sizes. Soaker hose dripline limits are based on tubing size, emitter output and spacing.

1/4” & 1/2” Soaker Hose Dripline

         

 

 

Hole Punches: aka Tubing Punch: Tool used to punch a hole into solid drip poly tubing for the insertion of drip emitters or 1/4” barbed fittings.

Key Punch, Deluxe Hole Punch, Super Punch

 

         

 

Overall Considerations

When planning out a drip irrigation system, it’s important to take in all the different variables that come with designing a system. Conditions such as soil type, sun exposure and slopes can all have an impact on the parts that you will need to install. It’s also important to know your water source’s flow rate and pressure. Know the limitations of each drip component and any special requirements they may need. Product details can be found on our website in the details section for each part.

 

Whether installing a drip system by yourself or turning it into a family project, a drip system can be a rewarding endeavor and doing your homework before hand can help make the installation of your drip irrigation system painless and hassle free.